A culinary tour, a fascinating tour

By Yvan Martineau, cycling journalist, tourism and outdoor activities correspondent for the program “Les week-ends de Paul Houde,” cycling tour guide, and media ambassador for the Véloroute des Bleuets

A Culinary Tour Along the Véloroute des Bleuets

I loved it! I absolutely loved taking part in the very first Gourmet Tour on the Véloroute des Bleuets, that famous cycling route and major tourist attraction in the Lac-St-Jean region! The participants thoroughly enjoyed it too. Especially since we took our time (I’m exaggerating a bit), stretching the fun out over four days. At every stop with local producers, the cycling tourists asked questions, showed great interest in our hosts, and were fascinated when they talked about the origins and mission of their family businesses or their attachment to their animals. And what can I say about the pride they expressed when describing their products! The Gourmet Tour is an experience with the potential to become a tradition.

From the very first pedal strokes as we set off from Alma, the group I was guiding for the Ekilib cycling tour agency was already soaking up that vacation vibe, with sections on bike paths, a first visit to a marina, and the crossing of the Grande Décharge aboard the Le Maligneau water shuttle.

Vergers de Velours, à St-Henri de Taillon

And the first stop on the itinerary was Vergers de Velours in St-Henri-de-Taillon, where the co-owner herself, Bianca Voyer, came out to greet us. What a determined woman! She and her team have racked up numerous accolades. In 2018 alone, they won seven medals for their beverages made from berry spirits (they own 2,000 fruit trees) at an international wine competition in New York State. The shop also makes foodies like me drool with its displays of homemade chocolates, chive blossom vinegar, green tomato ketchup, pickled cucumbers, and more.

Cycling from St-Henri to Dolbeau-Mistassini

We hop back on our bikes. The weather is gorgeous as we ride for miles right along the lake’s edge in Pointe-Taillon National Park (a Sépaq park). The view is spectacular. Several of us remark, “I didn’t realize the lake was this big.” At the end of the trail, there’s nowhere to go. It’s a dead end. After a swim in the shallow, warm water for dozens of meters, we board another water shuttle that drops us off on the other shore, in Péribonka. The charming forest sections take us to Sainte-Jeanne-d’Arc and then to Dolbeau-Mistassini. The power of the elements at the Chute des Pères is breathtaking. People often talk about Lake Saint-Jean, but in my view, we too often forget that the region is home to large, impressive rivers with strong currents.

Microbrasserie Le Coureur des Bois

Once we arrived at the hotel, we headed out to one of the region’s microbreweries, Le Coureur des Bois. We received another warm welcome there, where one of the owners took great pleasure in treating our group to a tasting experience. This “microbrewery” crafts 26 varieties of wild beers inspired by the region!

Just like the day before, we have about 60 kilometers ahead of us on Day 2 to reach St-Félicien. A gourmet stop at l’économusée Les Délices du Lac-St-Jean, another family-owned business. I’ve been a big fan of their wild blueberry and maple jams for a long time. The management shows us the wide range of products they make, such as wild blueberry tea and wild blueberry BBQ sauce. “Another deeply moving moment because we get to meet people who love what they do and are proud to share their knowledge,” one of the participants tells me.

From Albanel, we head next to Chute à l’Ours in Normandin, then on to “St-Fé.” The diverse landscapes, farmland, and forests make for a delightful journey. Later, what a pleasure it was for me to see the Bouchard family again—from Bouchard Artisan Bio—who gave us a royal welcome. Valérie, with great kindness, recounted the roots of this family of local producers who have been based in Lac for five generations, describing and offering samples of their famous cheeses and yogurts. My clients ask questions and show their curiosity. Carl (Bouchard) has been standing off to the side for 30 minutes when, finally, he joins the conversation. And off we go again… Our group is touched by the sincere devotion these farmers have for their craft and their cows.

And then came the request: could we visit the barn? Sure! Imagine about fifteen cycling tourists, in cycling shorts and clipless shoes, wandering through the aisles, enchanted by the sight. And especially by the baby calves.

Truly, such warm, friendly people—the extended Bouchard family!

We park our bikes in St-Félicien

Since time had flown by, we missed the planned aperitif at the micro-brasserie La Chouape in St-Félicien—which is also well-known—and headed instead to dinner at a divine spot I hadn’t yet discovered despite my fifteen or so trips along the Véloroute des Bleuets: the restaurant O Pied marin. The menu draws inspiration from local specialties, so some opt for the parmesan fondue with blueberry chutney, others for the flank steak with blueberry sauce, and still others for… poutine… with blueberries! It’s also divine because the restaurant sits on the banks of the Ashuapmushuan River, next to a marina, with a view of the sunset. Magnificent!

Day 3: A Day of Culture and Cheese

Ekilib, Destination Lac-St-Jean, and the Véloroute des Bleuets recommended stops like these every day as we cycled along, notably at Fromagerie Perron and Boulangerie et Fromagerie Médard. And at the musée amérindien de Mashteuiatsh, which everyone takes the time to visit on Day 3. It is in this area, in fact, that the Véloroute returns to run alongside Lac St-Jean, charming us all over again. One scene among many: in Roberval, picnicking in a park on the shores of Piékouagami (the name given to Lake St-Jean by the Indigenous peoples), where the lake takes on the appearance of an inland sea, two of the participants relax, sitting in the sand, barefoot in the water. They chat. They appreciate the calm and the splendor of the surroundings. A moment of communion with nature.

A Bit of History in Val Jalbert

But we had to hop back on our bikes to head to the historic village of Val-Jalbert and get a taste of our ancestors’ way of life, spending the late afternoon and the night there. How charming—these old houses, their rooms furnished with antiques, tools, and artifacts from days gone by, and streets lined with wooden sidewalks just like in the John Wayne Westerns. The high waterfall is impressive, transforming in the evening under lights of various colors. When it comes to dining, Val-Jalbert offers one of the best restaurants in the region, located in the old stone mill. The decor and atmosphere are sublime!

On the morning of the last day, some of the most breathtaking natural viewpoints along the Véloroute des Bleuets on the lake draw gasps of wonder and prompt photo stops. It’s also wonderful to cycle through Desbiens, Métabetchouan-Lac-à-la-Croix, and St-Gédéon before heading back to Alma via another water shuttle to return to La Maison du vélo.

A wonderful gourmet bike tour

This gourmet tour was made even more memorable by the wide-open spaces, the natural attractions, and the warm hospitality of the proud residents and producers of the Lac-St-Jean region. It was also enhanced by the quality of services along the Véloroute, as well as by Ekilib’s support—including luggage transport, healthy snacks, and the van and trailer that follow behind in case of need, and more. Finally, it was made even more special by the camaraderie that quickly developed within the group—groups that came alive with the rhythm of their shared passion for a common hobby.

As you can imagine, with such a positive experience, I hope the Gourmet Tour becomes a tradition. Likewise, I wholeheartedly wish this enriching human experience upon as many cycling tourists as possible.

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*This culinary tour was created by Destination Lac-St-Jean and the Véloroute des Bleuets, in collaboration with the Ekilib agency, for which the author, journalist Yvan Martineau, leads tours all over the world.